Still have Three issues and am very pleased that the help here and on the phone is great. Put all together for convenience.

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To reiterate I have the 019150M and four06002M:

Problem 1 is something that is being worked on and will take many weeks at best to resolve per recent feedback from Acurite. This is that I never get any system alerts. This however makes it difficult for me to know if my intermittent failure listed next is only one sensor, all sensors or very infrequent. Also would tell me if even the failing sensor has gone offline and back online by itself. I have no error log !!!!

Problem 2 this is the most troubling as I need to rely on this system when I am 1200 miles away. Can be coincidence, like I said I can not tell given no system alerts are working, but one of my sensors "3A" was offline now twice while the other three were just fine. I manually caught this by looking at the dashboard. The sensor did show as RED. This happened in two completely different sensor locations. It could be that this and other sensors fail intermittently and reset without my intervention. The signals at the HUB showed sensor "3A" and two others at  a signal level of 3. Then I had one sensor with a signal of 4 and that sensor was in the closest location to the HUB. I placed "3A" in this good location and swapped it with one of my other sensors. Now the sensor in question "3A" had a signal level of 4. Sensor "3A" went offline again. Both failures exceeded an hour. I unplugged the HUB waited until MyAcurite refreshed twice and then plugged the HUB back in. Two MyAcurite refreshes later, seems a refresh is every 5 minutes, all sensors were fine again. Bad sensor? Or are others sensors also failing and I just don't see it thus my frustration.

Problem 4 is that I located a sensor intentionally to achieve a signal level of 2. It took over 12 hours 2 days ago to go ORANGE and have MyAcurite show the weak signal. Then I put that sensor separated from all other sensors but close enough to have a signal level of 4. 36 hours later its still ORANGE and the sensor is working just fine. Not really a big deal as the sensor is working just fine and if I am 1200 miles away that's really what matters. STILL this is a system problem since the changeover 11JAN was very quick and accurate before that.

Hope there are answers to all of this :-(
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rschul

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Posted 2 years ago

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rschul

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OK an UPDATE:

Now A different sensor went Offline for no reason and that one is a 3 level signal at the hub. So it was just coincidence and I may be having this problem more often than I am aware. 

This time I am not going to do anything to get this sensor to work. I want to see if it stays offline "forever" or it will come alive all on its own. No power Cycle.

Really too bad. I don't have that much invested but if it has these systems have offline, for no reason failures, and they need a power reset to get working unfortunately this product may not be what I need. I will report back one way or the other.

If the sensor comes back online all by itself I will have to decide if this is a product that still may be worth keeping. I will update !!!! 

IUPDATE: Sensor stayed Failed for 4 hours.

After 4 hours I will not power cycle but I will pull the batteries on the three good sensors to see what happens. I want to test a theory.
UPDATE: I pulled the batteries on the three good sensors. By the time I got back to my PC the failed sensor was working fine and was GREEN. Never touched anyting but taking the batteries out of the working sensors !!!!!!!!.

UPDATE: I am waiting for another failure. Then I will Reboot my Modem/Router. With Comcast I can do this remotely from anywhere from the Comcast android remote APP. This would give me a remote way to FIX. If this works maybe I can consider keeping this system not sure yet. I still have time to get a full refund.

I will Update here if I get another failure and a modem/router reboot works or not.

I am sure Aurite has my contact information so feel free to contact me if that seems helpful. However I think you can see that your sensors are interfering with themselves and mine are all at least 20 feet apart with the HUB at their center. Also My HUB is set up near the ceiling. After all I have 4 sensors and this system can go to 10 now so the opportunity for interference withing your own system is likely.

I can not tell what your system architecture is. The criterio for setting a sensor offline for example nor if this ERROR is set at the HUB or at MyAcurite I assume its the latter. Now I know once a sensor meets the failed criterion you do not want that sensor to easily go back on-line to avoid too many Alerts. I have to guess that the criterion is maybe "how intermittent is the data stream" an indicator of noise. If a user could go into MyAcurite and manually clear this error and stop it from persisting when they know the sensor should be OK and they can see if it fails again would be useful (workaround for now). Alternative is just on the first detected failure don't take it offline, waits a period of time and then start the detection algorithm again. If the sensor is truly failed it will fail quickly again then keep it offline. If OK for say an hour then consider the sensor fine. Obviously there could just be a "tweak" needed to your offline and put back online algorithm.

I do not know if the "battery out" offline detection and the "noisy sensor" offline criterion trigger use the same algorithm. Obviously no batteries is 100% lost data so ideal case for a "noise" driven algorithm. I decided to test this so will pass this on:
Batteries out. Time stamp stopped updating on next MyAcurite refresh. 25 minutes later the sensor went RED and was offline.
Batteries in. Time stamp updated on next MyAcurite refresh. 17 minutes later the sensor went Green and was back online.

This Battery test (no signal at all) seems reasonable. Additional testing done shows that the no battery offline condition appears to be handled just fine rebooting HUB or Router/modem this is good. 
(Edited)
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rschul

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I did as much local testing and gave as much information as I can. Once the SYSTEM alert system is fixed I could give better feedback.

I understand my issue of having to be able to get things working from a remote location may only be a small part of your customer base. Its for those with Primary or Vacation home protection that really need this as we can be thousands of miles away for extended periods of time. I am glad I am seeing posts that the WU issue may be resolved.

The sensor remaining YELLOW ORANGE even though it clearly has a strong local signal is a detail but not critical. I can remotely see that the temperature readings are updating and the sensor is working. For Information this feature worked perfect before the 11JAN outage.

What is Critical is the random sensor going offline even though it appears to be working just fine Locally. This sensor remains offline and requires a power cycling of the HUB to correct. THIS IS a killer for me. As an engineer this problem would make me uneasy about my system reliability which is key for all. Fixing a sensor failure issue by taking the batteries out of all the working sensors ???? This is a system reliability issue for sure. I have to assume the need for features, ease of use and system reliability was the key driver for the migration to MyAcurite.

Can I please get some feedback on this issue. I doubt its the sensors or the HUB so either there is an algorithm or automatic reset function that is not working or the system needs a "user initiated reset" of some kind.

I understand that not all conversations should happen in a forum and that is fine just e-mail me. Lots of issue resolution happens one on one with customers. I want to keep this system but have to return soon to get a refund but I guess that is my problem. I want your company to have a solid reliable product benefits me, other customers and Acurite.
(Edited)
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rschul

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Even if the Alert system was working Only the failures on the sensors I talked about above that persisted for over an hour would have logged for a sensor failure. Last night (11:30pm) two sensors fail at the same refresh cycle and both went RED. Two refresh cycles (10minutes) later they both went GREEN. The good is that 10 minutes later they were Green again. They are still working now for 14 hours.

SO MY biggest issue is these random sensor failures that do not self reset that are problematic and require a power reset to fix.

I have now set up an old PC I have that is displaying the MyAcurite Dashboard and I set it up to save a screen shot every 15 minutes, my wife's idea :-). With this I can see if I get alot of sensor offline failures that do correct themselves. Hopefully they are not too frequent. But there needs to be a fix for the persistent failures that can not be fixed remotely. 

Not sure yet if this system is worth the risk of keeping I can still get a refund. I got myself an additional week to decide as my point of purchase vendor extended my required return date.

Hopefully I will get feedback on the sensors failures that did persist. Hopefully they will tell me they found the problem and it can be fixed. Certainly a remote "reboot" capability or remote "reset" would solve this and probably many other customer issues. Even my Modem/router has a remote reboot function through Comcast APP.
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AcuRite Jennifer

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Hello Rschul,

We are sorry for the delay in response. Are you able to turn the lights off for a few days on your smartHUB by pressing the register/activate button for about 10 seconds. Keep them off for a few days, and let us know if your signal strength changes at all. Thank you.
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rschul

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I will be glad to do any test.

I numbered the questions so it will be easier and made them YES/NO questions so you can answer quickly thanks :-)

Question 1: If I press for the 10 seconds and the Blue lights go out do I leave the system in that state and running normally?

Question 2: Will the lights go out while holding the button or do I just try 10 seconds and release?  

Question 3: If it does not work the first time do I just repeat?

Question 4: If I am supposed to leave it running should I expect MyAcurite to operate?


Note: I have a PC set-up and it takes and logs a screen shot of the Dashboard every 10 minutes so if my Accurite stays running I will know if and when the Yellow changes to Green. I can also tell if the state changes often between YELLOW and GREEN if that should happen.

When you say " Keep them off for a few days, and let us know if your signal strength changes at all"

Question 5:  Are you referring to the signal strength as shown by the 4 bars when I mouse over the yellow sensor?


State for the last few days I have 3 Green (are 3 and 4 level signals) and 1 yellow. The yellow is a 3 in the HUB so it could be a "weak 3" and remains Yellow. I did however move that sensor a few days ago and kept its signal at 4 for over 24 hours and it stayed yellow?

Question 6: Should I move thw yellow sensor so it has a solidy strong signal? 


Question 7 : Hope the long delay issues are being looked into are they?

Question 8: Hope the System Alert feature is being fixed, is this fix still weeks out?


Also FYI I have not had a random failure now for 3 days so there is hope on this I guess.
(Edited)
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rschul

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Possible. YES I have tested extensively and Yes the problem started 11JAN. I hear you. That being said Its no big deal for me to try anything that may help. Only took 5 minutes to do it. I have programmed PIC's in the past. It could be a data rate issue. So I see reasons that could be the use of this test. 1) It takes some "load" off the PIC. 2) The LED's and its circuits may generate noise. 3) They have this "special" state for some reason and maybe they are not being honest and basically I put my HUB into a debug mode so they can monitor somethng (I hope its this one because the other two I feel are longshots but possible).

I have found at least on one occation that taking all the batteries out and then waiting for the right light to flash rapidly (no sensors detected) then unplug HUB put batteries back in and then plug HUB back in gets the HUB and MyAcurite to agree but then it never updates again no matter what you do. Appears they store the data in some registers that they never update after initialization.

As you said before 11JAN I would get accurate info within minutes all sensors. 

We can only move forward at this point. However I can still return my stuff but running out of time. I have to decide if i want to risk my $120 or come back again for next winter and try again. I will say I was a Director of R&D and Bugs do get missed (I used Bugzilla for reporting and corrective action). That being said these problems could have been seen if they did any REAL testing. Never should have been rolled out. JON (the CEO) and whover is managing R&D need to think more about the function and not the schedule. Its obvious this company is schedule driven !!!! BIG mistake.

WHAT does discourage me is that without question if they just take a few HUB's and connect up many sensors to each they will be able to see and debug all of the issues even if it takes a hardware change and then put a "lets fix all the systems" plan together. They could in 1 hr set up see the failure we are looking at here and do this "test".

I had a sign on my wall "There is always an answer to every problem however the problem may be you don't like the answer"
(Edited)
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AcuRite Jennifer

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Hello Rschul,

1. Yes

2. Press for 10 seconds and release the lights should be off.

3. No

4. Yes

5. Your signal might be on the edge of green or yellow. This could also be the caching that I referred to on another post where it can take up to 20 minutes for the bar to change, however your information should still be updating during this time.

6. No

7. It is due to the caching. It can take up to 20 minutes to change, but the readings are still updating to My AcuRite. You can check this by viewing your charts & details and seeing the 5 minute intervals.

8. I will update you once I find out more information regarding the LOS and LOC alerts. Thank you.
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rschul

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Jennifer:

See below and thanks for this response. I went ahead and did not wait for your response. I realized what the answers would be. Good thing is I ran the first tests as you stated. Then Jenny posted, she said you consulted with her. All of my reports follow.

YES I can see there is a long delay and I understand. It just does not seem reasonable that If I unplug my system and all sensor TIME stamps stop updating that RED GREEN or YELLOW the system knows its not getting any new data to update with. This really is not a problem for me as I know what to look for and I know the temperature reading is FAKE even if its green or yellow. RED is at least telling me something is wrong. However the system is not really updating it just reporting the last temperature received and can be totally wrong for this 20 to 30 min Cache period. I agree for my use not a big deal. My only issue here is that I need the system alert so I know when a sensor goes RED and I know to take a look and see what is happening. That being said the data in the graph during the CACHE period is wrong. Enough said I just do not agree with R&D how this is presented to the user. For me the critical item is fixing the System Alerts.

I have proven below that the  Persistent YELLOW is definitely not due to a marginal 2/3 dithering of signal. After my first report below when finally all sensors went green I repositioned a different sensor to a definite 1/2 signal. May not be worth reading my reports below as here is the "executive summary". I know its hard to follow my data.

When we turned the BLUE lights off it took 5 hours before the persistent YELLOW sensor went GREEN, Progress???. I have left this sensor alone and is still GREEN. I took a different sensor and placed it so that its signal when refreshing the HUB frequently would dither in signal between 1 and 2 so a definite YELLOW. It took 36 hours for that sensor to go YELLOW. Then I place that sensor back where it is a solid 4 level signal at At 5:30am Sunday 29JAN and it is still YELLOW. THUS A PROBLEM and is not due to a signal dithering between a 2 and 3 level where it may show as a GREEN or as YELLOW.

The fact that the custom alerts are working and I have not had any random sensors failing RED for no reason in a week is why I decided to keep the system. Why the sensors stopped going offline for no reason I do not know.  I previously had 5 failures the week before and the sensors were working perfectly. I had to power reset the system to get it reporting again and go GREEN. At least I know, even if the COLOR is wrong and its not RED my temperature readings are OK and I will be alerted if the temperature goes outside my custom alert levels.

Should I turn my BLUE lights back on it does not seem like this state is helping anyone. I can leave them off if it is still useful and is not affecting my systems performance.
(Edited)
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rschul

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Jennifer:

See comments above. Hopefully I clarified all the data that I put below. You are trying real hard and I appreciate it but R&D is not helping to properly and honestly answer questions or give feedback on issues. 

Now the sensor that I put  In place that was a solid 4 level signal at At 5:30am Sunday 29JAN and it is still YELLOW finally turned GREEN early Tusday 31JAN. It took over 48 hours, really this is normal. THIS is a A system failure and is not due to a signal dithering between a 2 and 3 level where it may show as a GREEN or as YELLOW. Proof positive. Most likely a timming or data stack issue and probably an indicator of many issues that exist. Find the root cause of this problem and I bet you will have a more reliable and better performing system.

Now the definition of caching is "Caching (pronounced “cashing”) is the process of storing data in a cache. A cache is a temporary storage area". All R&D is saying to me is that the problem is actually as designed and the delay is intentional. They cache the sensor data for a long enough period of time to make a "RED" determination. This is fine but just say so. THIS IS NORMAL !!! Honestly I know my stuff I can see a "smoke screen" when I see one. I had to deal with this from my staff all the time whenI was  a systems engineer. ALL I ASK IS be clear with customers what is BROKE and what is NORMAL. I figured this was the case. That is why I asked, mant posts ago, if there is an intentional delay in the detection and reporting of failed sensors and HUB communication so sensors are not taken offline unecessarily. THE PROBLEM is that Acurite did not just state THIS IS AS DESIGNED AND NORMAL. If they did then case closed move on.

Now I don't really care what the color is for my use. I know if the color is not RED so far I can always trust the temperature reading. THIS IS GOOD. This may not appear on the face of it. I can tell you that from experience this is a systemic issue that probably is related to other critical issues and server timingor data stack issues, my guess . By not looking into this R&D is missing a potentially big opportunity to understand what is causing many of the issues with all kinds of failures. Its a lower priority feature that is trying to tell you where the bigger problems are.R&D is missing a big opportunity here as it is well characterized and clear in its failure its not INTERMITTENT.

I am going to assume that R&D Does not need my HUB in the no BLUE light mode so I am putting my system back to normal operating mode. If they want me to turn the BLUE lights off agin I will. I prefer my system be in its proper operating mode.
(Edited)
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rschul

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Jennifer:
I do not know what turning the BLUE lights off does. Given it appeared to have little effect on the Color status issue. This issue also is not all that critical. I am glad I turned the BLUE lights back on. After 7 hours I had a random sensor failure and may be coincidence but since the BLUE lights were off I had NO sensor failures. Failure defined as sensor did go RED and was OFFLINE. Please see my NEW post focussed on just this issue. IT looks like this is definitely a HUB issue or a sensor to sensor interfearance issue. I will spend some time at that post so I am short and precise. Should be up by 3pm.
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rschul

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Jennifer:

I proceeded see above for the corresponding questions.

Q1  Blue lights OFF I left system running as is.
Q2  All set Blue lights are OFF Amber Ethernet Fashing.
Q3 Worked first time
Q4 Seems like MyAcurite still updating the Time stamps are changing for the sensors.
Q5 ??? Is this YES or is it something Else I need to look at. I have my screenshot every 10 min program running with MyAcurite displayed.I can only log one sensors h
"hiiden data with the signal so I am logging the one stuck on Yellow its still a solid 3 as best I can tell. 
Q6 I left all sensors where they are so for now the only change is BLUE lights off.This way we only have a single change so better for a DEBUG situation.
Q7 ???  Please is this YES or NO
Q8 ???   Please is this YES or NO

Sorry it took me so long to realize the obvious.

Hope I did what you asked/need. Now I think I understand the Rational for this test. Clever. Also test was started 5:38pm here in New England.

Also could you please help this person. I tried and it looks like everything at this persons end looks fine. I was on until Midnight with them. I had them delete the HUB and try to claim it as my assesment was that she needed to do this. They can not reclaim so they need your help:

https://support.acurite.com/acurite/topics/sensor-signal-strength-excellent-but-offline?utm_source=n...
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rschul

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Jennifer:

For the record I did post a sceptical comment here that I decided to delete. Even I loose confidence and patience after hours and nothing happened. OK now lets move on. Sorry  :-(

Status Update as the one sensor that has sustained YELLOW for Days did turn GREEN.

The only change as I noted was that I pushed the Button and turned off the BLUE lights. Put the HUB back in its spot. Nothing else was touched.

I checked the PC logging the screenshots at about Midnight and saw that all sensors were GREEN. I went back through the screenshots and here is what I saw:

I started the test at 5:38pm Thursday.
At between 10:28pm and 10:36pm The sensor "Master Bedroom" changed from YELLOW TO GREEN .Its signal strength was in fact still 3 and labeled the signal as strong. All sensor remained GREEN until my last observation at 12:19am. OK I WAS surprised :-) .

At 12:19pm I looked at the status of all and all showed GREEN:

Sensor                  In MyAcurite          In HUB
Family Room       3 Bars - Strong           3
Living Room        4 Bas - Excellent        4
Matt Room           4 Bars - Excellent       4 This sensor tends to toggle between 3 and 4 all the time. Note below its stuck on 4 bars so possible its strength is closer to a 4 than a 3 and thus why the Excellent is persisting.
Master Bedroom  3 Bars - Strong           3  This one was YELLOW for Days at a 3 signal.

System continues to run same state and I am capturing screenshots. Given my HUB strengths will remain either 3 or 4 I do not expect to see any changes to YELLOW. I will report if I capture any changes.

After typing all this it was 12:47pm. All remained the same as above in MyAcurite except  "Matt Room" was now 3 in the HUB . UPDATE Friday 6:53am "Matt Room" remains 3 bars in the HUB but is still 4Bars and Excellent in MyAcurite. I also forgot to state this. When the "Matt Room" sensor turnrd YELLOW I did have that sensor intentionally located to give a steady level 2 strength in the HUB but that was 4 Days ago. I then Moved it Back where it remains and toggles 3/4.

I can if you want locate one of the sensors of your choice to a location where I get a 2 level signal or even get a solid level 1 to be sure it should be YELLOW.to see if it turns YELLOW at some point. SHOULD I DO THIS? A thought maybe it would be better to remove the batteries on the other three sensors and eliminate interfearence and data rate the HUB needs to process. Maybe "Matt Room" will work better.

 I will do what the AcuRite team wants. You can reach me with e-mail if that would help. If I know who it comes from I will give you my "real name". You can see then I am no lightweight in R&D. Guess I miss the action but like being retired :-)
(Edited)
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AcuRite Jenny, Official Rep

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rschul,First I'd like to confirm that this was indeed a real experiment we wanted to try. If I am understanding you correctly it appears that so far, by turning off the lights the signal strength is not changing from green to yellow like it was previously. Is this correct?Please understand that we do our best to respond as quickly as possible to each post but as you yourself know, many customers post in multiple threads and then the research takes additional time. We will respond to your posts as quickly as we are able.
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rschul

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PLEASE TALK TO JENNIFER. This was a test I was asked to run see the post from Jennifer above my informational posts. She is working with the development group. Your understanding is incorrect but understandable as you have not been workig to help me until now. Running normal BLUE lights doing their normal things I had the problem you state. Jennifer asked me to run this test and see if it changes anything and it did.

Jennifer:  https://support.acurite.com/people/acurite_jennifer you can probably reach here here.

Thanks again but I do not want to relitigate my issues Jennifer has been great. Please don't take my frustration personally but if you read from the top down what you ask wold have been answered. To report on this test took me over an hour and I was Glad to to it in hopes it will help Acurite and at the same time help me and other customers.
(Edited)
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AcuRite Jenny, Official Rep

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Thank you rschul, I am well aware of your situation and thank you for confirming. This is what I was stating. That making this change did indeed improve the signal strength changes and the green/yellow status lights. I am the one who instructed Jennifer to ask you to complete this test and we thank you for that. I will be sure to pass this along to our development team. We will update you with any further information as it becomes available.JennyConsumer Support Manager
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rschul

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OK great I would really like to keep this system and probably will take the risk. I have until next Wednesday to decide. As for improvement yes it did turn one that was persistent Yellow to Green as it should have done but it still took 5 to 6 hours. I am leaving my system as is Blue lights off for now. I have no idea what this MODE is for. The fact that only one event happened is not conclusive thus why I asked If i should reposition a sensor until I get a level 1 or 2 and see if now it goes from Green to Yellow. If it does this test would be more conclusive in my opinion. I await feedback and do appreciate your response and especially Jennifer for trying so hard !!

UPDATE: 5:05PM Friday: I decided to move my Signal level 4 "living Room" to a place I get a solid 2 level signal. I will report if it turns Yellow. If it does I will put it back and see if it turns green. As a Systems engineer I decided this is the next best step as it is a "non invasive" test and changes only one variable. We are approaching the weekend so its Monday the earliest I would hear anything anyway.
(Edited)
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rschul

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Monday Update 29JAN, as stated below this will be my last routine update. Probably what Acurite wants anyway.

Seems to be working the same with the BLUE lights OFF I just need to know when I should turn them back on. I doubt this is improving anything anyway.

FYI: MyAcurite only updates my Data every 3min 14 seconds  to 4 minutes 5 seconds.

BLUE lights are still intentionally OFF as requested.

1.       Friday, Saturday and Sunday I moved my “Living Room Sensor” around to get signal level changes ID #12936. Results follow.

2.       At 5:16pm Friday 27JAN Moved “Living Room” sensor to a Signal 2 level location. Note I also had another sensor stating excellent signal but was a solid 3 level “Matt Room”.

3.       Between 12:00am and 5:30am Sunday 29JAN Both sensor states did update so system can interpret and report correct status The data must get to the server in a usable form ,took about 36 hours though to update.

           a.       “Matt room” went from Excellent to Strong and showed 3 bars so it matched the HUB                and did stay Green.

           b.      “Living Room” went from Green to yellow and showed 2 bars so it matched the HUB.

4.       At 5:30am Sunday 29JAN I moved “Living Room” Back to its location where it has a HUB signal level of 4 .

5.       Will see what happens. Monday 6:00am 30JAN “Living Room” Still Yellow and still shows 2 bars and still has a HUB signal of 4 (over 24hrs and still wrong).

My thoughts and comments:

·       I am sure the R&D is looking at the problem this way if not here is my educated guess (SWAG).

o   All the data that you see when you mouse over that needs no algorithm or calculation (Time stamp, Sensor name and possibly battery status) will update immediately. Process through prety much real time.

o   The temperature updates quite well but that too needs at most a simple moving average. And that is passed off to the custom alert part of the system and that works fine. Process through almost real time.

o   The System alerts, power bar indicator, and button color I have to assume has the data go through a Set of algorithms that are tricky so that Alerts are not triggered improperly and I bet the sensor power and color are part of the same server SW and routing. I do not think the two problems are unrelated. Thus the “bottleneck/ Delay” is in this area of the system. Guess that wherever this data goes gets grossly delayed and is not real time. FIFO stacks may be filling at a high data rate but are only "looked at" infrequently so it gets grossly out of sync with real time but the data is there. The data Queue is filling fats but processed slow. This is just one way this kind of problem can happen. It can also be server specific or is a server to server issue. This can afect some account different than other accounts. Since this data classificaton is status related and not a direct effect on the data maybe the data stacks need more frequent clearing. Kinda acts like the equivalent of a memory leak. Maybe the equivalent of a "memory/queue garbage collector" is needed.

·       Assuming R&D is looking at my account as it is a consistent issue for sensor power status and that no system alerts work making my account/system a perfect system for debug. I would be glad to set up an emulator feed through my router if the R&D wants to send me something.  The emulator can be a modified sensor that changes its sent information periodically, Like battery staus. The emulator can also be a “fake” HUB that can change signal levels etc periodically or on demand by a developer or ME flipping switches to change configuration (hardware or SW/Data stream). Be glad to help.

·       Does not seem like the problems are my HUB but possible there is a systemic HUB issue. I am banking on things getting fixed and decided to keep this system and hope I will not have to replace it with something else. Worst case is I will use this system for secondary monitoring and get a different Primary system.

·       I have two other areas to monitor. Basement water and one more room temperature but I will wait on further investment. I am still concerned that the more sensors I load this HUB with the more failures I will have.

·       Regardless I will just have to wait and see.

·       Feedback on status appreciated. As things are fixed I would like to know.

·       Beyond that I probably will not be posting much anymore unless I see new issues. I will also stop trying to help others during support dead time (late Friday through early Monday) this needs to be addressed it’s not fair or acceptable to customers. I tried to help some posters by giving some guidance but my effort may be hurting not helping anyway. 

(Edited)
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S. Sinclair

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Rschul,

It appears to me that you and I, and most likely many other people, are encountering this same issue with the faulty signal strengths and lack of alerts since the shutdown of services on January 11, 2017.  Since that date I have done the same testing that you were asked to do by AcuRite and have had the same results as you did. I have had sensors that drop from an Excellent signal to a Poor signal for no reason at all I have also experienced the lack of a signal strength update for up to 24 hours. In spite of what AcuRite might be thinking this problem persist whether the lights on the hub are turned on or off.

I am frustrated because the AcuRite people that answer the customers questions are very hesitant to admit many of the problems that their customers are experiencing with MyAcuRite such as the signal strength, system alert and real feel temperature issues that we are experiencing.

I do understand that they have been concentrating on the rainfall reset issue, which has been ongoing since the migration, however I do not understand why they are having so much of a delay in fixing the sensor strength and lack of system alerts that were created with their attempted fix on January 11.

Since it is very obvious that the January 11 update did very little to fix the rainfall resets, but did create problems with the sensor strength and system alerts it seems to me that it would be easy to undo the changes that were made on that date that created these issues.

I agree with you that there should be some support from the AcuRite staff to respond to the issues that their customers on the weekends since this is the only time that many people have to try to get their AcuRite products to work as advertised!

I am very disappointed in AcuRite's seemingly lack of support for their customers, delays in fixing the problems that their customers encounter and the misinformation that is posted by AcuRite employees because they do not want to admit that there is multiple issues with MyAcuRite and other products.        
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Eric

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I will report, the first time my 5 in 1 sensor went offline it was offline all day - until I returned home and powered down the SH for a few minutes, once it was powered back up the sensor came back online.  A few days later the 5 in 1 sensor went offline again, however, it came back online a couple hours later - without any intervention.  The color display console has no issues and always shows full strength signal.
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rschul

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Thanks

Guess then we should say near a screen-less window unless of course its a fiberglass screen :-)

Also came across this on the Acurite site some time ago. I found it useful and interesting.

https://www.acurite.com/learn/installation/wireless-signal-range
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John Z

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Yes, that is a pretty good guide. I wonder if wires and phone gear carrying high speed ADSL signals shouldn't be on the list of things to stay away from.
Very.Strong.Noise.
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rschul

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I would tend to agree these may be bad as can the WIFI be. This is why Acurite advice has been to move the HUB away from the Modem/router. Another good point.
(Edited)
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Eric

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I believe these are all excellent points.  However, I do believe the "pretty" smarthub's receiving circuit is less then efficient and correctly tuned.

The modification to the smarthub (voiding warranty - of course) involving a dipole antenna conversion seems to have produced excellent results with others that have done it - some have gone from a weak signal to a strong 4 bar signal! (have never seen 4 bars with any of my sensors to the smarthub).

Instead of a "pretty" flip-up lid, I would think a two antenna (dipole) system, like you see on wireless routers, would alleviate many of our persnickety position/rotation issues.  These antennas, like flip-up, adjustable, molded rubber ones, don't look bad - and would probably be far more functional.  Maybe the next version of smarthub will incorporate a higher performing reception circuit.

After tweaking my smarthub (unmodified) position and rotation, I seem to be getting a constant 3 bars on my 5 in 1 sensor and room monitor!  Like has been mentioned, 1 bar is okay - but you might be dropping to no bars and going offline periodically.  I would say a constant 2 bars should be a minimum goal.
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John Z

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Eric,

The pair of antennas on a wireless router do not form a conventional dipole, like the old TV rabbit ears. They are actually much better! Each one is a self-contained half-wave "coaxial sleeve dipole". Because the wavelength here is quite small (about 12 cm, just under 5 inches), they can be quite compact. Some larger ones have a 3/4 wave element with a 1/4 wave coaxial sleeve, and offer a little gain. They feed into independent TX/RX channels to provide diversity.

A half-wave antenna similarly constructed for 433.92 MHz (70 cm or 27 inches wavelength) would be quite large and unwieldy. The rubber duckie antennas that you may see for 434 MHz use are shortened quarter wave monopoles, similar to the coil antennas that AcuRite uses inside sensors. They must work against a good ground plane. I think that Tom D's dipole mod works in part because he distanced the antenna from the internal PIC processor, which may be a source of internally generated interference.
(Edited)

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